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Setting up Mindik Base Camp was a challenge. Using the direct route from Pindiu Patrol Post, Mindik was about 5 to 10 hours walk away, depending on how fit you were. It was also about 10 minutes flying time. Many an hour was therefore spent waiting on Mindik airstrip for a balus to turn up.
Early in 1970, I was directed to create the Mindik Base Camp on the crest of a hill overlooking the Kua river valley, about 10 minutes motorbike ride away from the airstrip. As was often the case, the Mission had got there first and set up the Mission ‘banis’ on the best hill directly overlooking the airstrip.
Having set up the campsite with a flag post, government rest house (with Mindik painted on the roof) cook’s quarters, police barracks and a small office, I went about making the place more homely. I had always admired the multi coloured crotons that abounded in most PNG villages and so I set out a small formal garden, using these easily grown plants. After a few months, the level ground nearby was extended and made into a soccer ground and a sport club was then constructed. A dipole radio aerial was stretched between two enormous lengths of bamboo and I was able to contact the world (or more specifically Lae and Pindiu) through my little 510 portable radio.
I give this little vignette as background for it has some bearing on the rest of the story.
Almost every morning at about 0730hrs. a plane from Lae would buzz me just as I was finishing my coffee, prior to starting work. It soon became a challenge to see how close a pilot could get to my roof as he flew over. One morning, I nearly lost my coffee over the front of my shirt as a plane snuck up on me with ‘feathered’ engine and then opened up the throttle directly over my head. Suddenly the radio reception went dead and when I went outside I noticed the plane had cut the radio aerial about two feet above the roof of my house.
As Mindik began to grow and some infrastructure was added including a vegetable garden, pigpen, poultry run and a bike shed, so people began to visit the Camp and government business was conducted where possible with a liklik kiap. In those days, the word ‘gavaman’ covered then full range of government services but usually referred to the sole government representative, i.e. the kiap.
The village of Hamerlingang, further down the Kua valley, had an affable old Councillor as its representative. After I had been there for about 9 months, vague rumours began to circulate about strange happenings and I received a clandestine visit from the Councillor who informed me about what was going on. With the connivance of the previous Council President, the local people had started to create a miniature base camp just outside the village, using bush materials to copy the Mindik site. The ‘office’ even had a kanda vine aerial stretched over it to signify where the ‘radio’ was. All around the clandestine base camp were rows and rows of crotons, or as they are known in Tokpisin, ‘tanket’. So powerful was this new secret society that very few non believers were allowed near it. Stories then started to spread about how ‘the way’ had been found to replicate the power and material goods of the white men. Spirits were reportedly able to appear when the lamps were turned off at night and one even spoke German. The ‘Tanket’ cult had begun.
This cult eventually spread all around the Pindiu area and the Huon Peninsular in various forms and I understand, may have evolved into the Pitinamu cult. Each village or cluster of villages had their own clandestine base camp with all the rows of crotons neatly laid out around it. The effect of the cult soon brought an end to government visits in many villages as the people believed they had found ‘the way’ and didn’t want to be interrupted in achieving their aims. All this was lost on me at the time as I had gone on leave in early 1971 and was then transferred to Kabwum as Patrol Officer.
In late 1974, as acting ADC Finschhafen, I received a phone call from the DC’s office in Lae that a DCA inspection was planned on various sights in the Sub District where people had been working to build airstrips. A helicopter, on charter to DCA, was to pick me up at Finschhafen and fly me around with the District Airport Inspector, to check on the various airstrip sights, then under construction. This visit was long awaited as there had apparently been some impasse between the Australian Department of Civil Aviation and the PNG equivalent after Self Government, as to who was responsible for the certifying of airstrips. The matter had now been resolved and the airstrip inspections could now resume I was told.
On the appointed day, in came the chopper with none other than my old mate (----) as passenger, (See a previous post under this subject). I had been posted to a number of stations between 1970 and 1974 and had not been back to the Pindiu/Mindik/Ogeranang area since then, while the cult had been underway.
The first site we visited was at Morago village. I had good reason to remember Morago, as my first murder investigation (an infanticide) and inspection of a dead body (a baby who had been buried in a rubbish tip for two weeks) was from the village of Morago. (I was also a split second away from dying in a landslide together with Constable 1/c Temba, coming back from the examination of the body, but that’s another story).
Given the lack of government visits, the people had themselves decided to build the airstrip near their village and owing to the cult, had chosen the site without any official involvement. As we landed, (----) said that the strip was obviously too short but he would none the less measure it. The site was a typical ridge starting from a mountainside and then sloping away to the edge of a precipice. A really good job they had done in moving a large amount of earth over the last three years and it looked really excellent. Excellent except that it was only about 800 feet long or about half the barest minimum allowed for any commercial fixed wing aircraft to land.
Out hopped (----) with a little wheel in the end of a stick and proceeded to measure up the obviously too short strip in a very business like manner. To those who have never seen the effects of a serious cult on the local village people, many seem to be in an almost trance like state and moved in a very lethargic manner with their eyes very wide. This can be very disconcerting however you had to be very nonchalant and act completely normal.
The people seemed very pleased to see us and proceeded to gather an enormous amount of billums (string bags) full of potatoes, kaukau and all manner of vegetables that grow in the mountains and not on the coast. (----) proceeded to accept these gifts with much aplomb, apparently not realising that under the principles of reciprocity, something was expected in return. I suggested that we didn’t have a great deal of space in the chopper however quite a lot ended up inside the aircraft.
Back came (----) and in a loud voice, proceeded to explain in his somewhat limited Tokpisin that the efforts of the last three years were all in vain as the strip was too short, (and as there was no way of extending it, the exercise had therefore been a total waste of time and effort). The people stared back at us as if we had lost our senses. A low grumbling started and grew in volume. I suggested to the pilot and (----) that we had better leave and leave quickly.
The time delay when a helicopter starts its engine and when it has enough revs to lift off, seemed like a bad nightmare. Time telescoped and seemed to slow down. All the while the crowd around the chopper grew and became more and more agitated. When we finally left the ground, I breathed a sigh of relief. One would think from that situation that a salient lesson had been learnt but no, the best was yet to come.
Remember the hassle between the two DCA offices? Right then, our next destination was the village of Suwetine in the Kua valley. Here I understood, the people had also been working on an airstrip for the last three years and had also not allowed any government official to conduct an initial inspection, due to the cult.
From the air, the village of Suwetine was located on the crest of a ridge as were many mountain villages. What was really interesting is that the raw, red clay they had moved in an obvious massive effort, bisected the village in the saddle of the ridge. It too, looked short however we landed and out got (----) with his ‘wiliwil’ (wheelie wheel) and proceeded to measure the full length of the surface.
Now comes the interesting part. The people had made arrangements for the big day and wanted us to go to the local school to make the long awaited announcement that they could use their airstrip. When all were assembled and after being hushed to silence, (----) was invited to speak.
“Ples balus bilong yupela emi sot tumas!” he said and sat down. A stunned hush descended on the enormous crowd of people. As at Morago, a low grumble started and began to gather pace. I looked out the where the chopper waited and saw it was about a hundred yards away and worse, the blades were stationary.
“Watpo yu no kam pastaim?” was yelled at us from the rear of th crowd.
“Psst!” I said to (----), “Say something, explain why!”
(----) got to his feet again and in a loud voice said, “Mi no kam bipo bilong wanem, gavaman istapim mi!”
1000 sets of eyeballs swiveled in the direction of the only gavaman they knew. Me.
“(----)” I hissed, “What have you done?”
“What, what, what do you mean?” he said, completely confused at the adverse reaction to his clear explanation about the intricacies of inter government departmental disputes.
I bundled him out of the school as the roar behind us commenced and we almost ran to the chopper. “Get this thing off the ground as fast as you can,” I said to the pilot. I think we broke the record for a helicopter takeoff time as the people started streaming out of the school house and environs and made towards the helicopter.
To this day, I don’t think (----) has any idea of how close things got or why. He was just doing his duty as he saw it.
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